A setup holds for the strings and tuning it was done with. Change either, or wait for the heating to come on in October, and it will need adjusting. That’s wood, not a fault.
Humidity
Wood takes in moisture and gives it out. Guitars are happiest at around 45–55% relative humidity. A cheap hygrometer in the room, or in the case, tells you where you are.
- Too dry (winter, central heating): sharp fret ends, lower action, new buzzes.
- Too damp (summer, unheated rooms): the neck bows forward, the action rises, and it’s harder to play.
Dry air is the bigger risk for an acoustic, because the top can crack. In winter, keep acoustics in their case with a humidifier pack and check the hygrometer weekly. A crack costs far more to fix than the pack.
Keep guitars away from radiators, fires, outside walls and sunny windows. A case is a more stable place than a stand. Don’t leave a guitar in a car on a hot day.
A small truss rod adjustment between seasons is normal. Setup measurements shows how to check relief and which way to turn. If you’d rather not do it yourself, bring the guitar in and I’ll check it.
Changing strings
If you stay on the same brand and gauge, nothing else changes. A different gauge does: heavier strings pull the neck forward and move the intonation, and a big jump can need the nut slots widening. Dropping the tuning lowers the tension, which has the same effect as going lighter.
On a guitar with a floating tremolo, changing gauge also changes the balance of the springs, so the bridge will tilt. Levelling it again means adjusting the spring claw screws in the back cavity, or I can do it as a floating-tremolo setup.
Looking after it
Wipe the strings and neck after you play. Sweat and grime corrode strings and gum up the fingerboard. Use a cloth or a guitar-specific cleaner on the finish. Household polish with silicone in it can get into the wood and cause problems at refinish time.
If new buzzes stay after a week, the fret ends are sharp, or it won’t hold tune, book it in.